"You could say I've been blessed, the ocean has taught me well. Learning from the ocean can be very humbling and the lessons are taught sometimes very quickly and concise. At the ripe old age of 10, my father, who by the way, was a highly decorated US Army Colonel, announced that Uncle Sam is sending us to Hawaii.
As life would have it, my 11th birthday was celebrated on a sailing vessel in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. I had no idea what "mama" Pacific had in store for me, and what her sisters Atlantic and India had up their sleeves.
On August 4, 1964, I first stepped foot on the Hawaiian aina land in Honolulu. The extent of my knowledge of Hawaii prior consisted of hearing the "Beach Boys" on the local jukebox in Pennsylvania at the local swimming pool. Little did I know..
Later that month, I got my very first taste of surfing. My dad rented a surfboard at Barbers Point US Military Recreational Beach. I paddled out, no clue, and I caught my first wave. Or should I say it caught me. I stood up, rode it all the way to the beach, stepped off the sand… and the rest is surfing history."